The Tibetan Temple
For days, Donna had been offering to take me to a Buddhist temple. And for days, I had felt unsure about going. I know my reaction was puzzling to Donna and my wife. They were keenly aware I had been reading about Buddhism and talking with Buddhists for forty years. Why wouldn't I want to visit a temple?
There are so many reasons, I'm not going to try to list them. Among them, though, are how Western Buddhism, Zen, and Pure Land Buddhism are all different from one another. Navigating among the slightly different faiths can get tricky. And then there's Tibetan Buddhism, which is differently different from any of those.
Pure Land emphasizes scriptures and devotion to Amitabha. (I realize I'm being so brief it seems flippant.) Zen focuses on meditation and koans. Western Buddhism is in the process of sifting through the parts of the philosophy that appeal to westerners. Tibetans, on the other hand, incorporate a lot of rituals, tantra, incarnations (think 'saints' if it helps), and a hierarchy of instructions under the guidance of lamas. It's not like the others, at least outwardly. And Tibetan temples, as all buildings do, tend to gather a lot of material goods.
No one has a choice about being material. We live in bodies. Lots of other forms of Buddhism - there's plenty more - have temples hosting rituals and sacred objects. But avoiding attachments is a significant, guiding principle behind the practice of Buddhism in all its forms. That's why it can feel odd to be confronted by the imperfect people, their ceremonies, and their attachments to rituals or ritual objects.
We were going to have a guide, though. That seemed helpful. He was a longtime resident of the area. He worked as a volunteer caretaker at the temple and he could meet us there. Plus, Donna's friend who knew the guide also sounded like an appealing person to meet. Basically, I thought we would at least meet good people if Donna could make the logistics work.
In the end, she did. Donna made the friendships and appointments line up. And so I leapt at the chance to go.
We arrived at the compound to discover a closed gate. That was usual. Donna's friend had the key to the gate. We rolled on in after shutting it behind us. The place looked beautiful. It also seemed deserted, which I hadn't expected. I didn't understand how the temple made sense here, how it did its business.
The roof of one of the buildings was slate red. Someone had painted its walls a warm yellow, too. I hadn't expected the colors. The place didn't seem as fancy as some other holy sites or even churches downtown. Likewise, we parked behind a second building that was mostly red and yellow, this one with aluminum siding to keep out the Canadian winter weather. At the door, we met a gray-haired couple. They seemed to be weeding and doing chores. Sure enough, one of them introduced himself as Sangha, our guide to the grounds. The woman was his wife, apparently also a volunteer.
"I'll have to replace this weather stripping," he said as we stepped through the door. He ran his hand over the left side of the doorframe.
He and his wife were the caretakers for the temple when the monks weren't around, which was most of the time. The monks treated the temple as a summer retreat and a place to hold special events, perform ceremonies on holy days, and hold meditation seminars.
Sangha gave us a private tour. How often do you get a private tour of a holy place? I gathered he had given it a few times before, though. And a minute or two after we started, his manners changed. He asked a few questions. I asked a few in return about Tibet, about the ceremonies, and suddenly he relaxed and grew more energetic. Any reservations I'd had about the visit melted away in the face of his warmth.
He seemed delighted, and a little surprised, to find I was genuinely interested in Buddhism. And I wanted the details about Tibet and the history behind the establishment of the monastery. He beamed. He wasn't a dogmatic ritual-minder at all. And Sangha wasn't simply a janitor, either. He was spiritually drawn in. He took care of the trappings around him but he didn't seem particularly attached to them.
He didn't quiz me about Tibetan incarnations or rituals. Instead, he told us about how some of the art had arrived here after the Chinese invasion of Tibet, about the practices held here, the statues of incarnations, and more. He seemed happy I knew enough about Tibet to understand details of its geography and history.
(I absolutely did not let on that some of what I remembered came from reading and re-reading Seven Years in Tibet. I was pretty sure everyone even slightly associated with Tibetan Buddhism must get tired of hearing about a single book, however popular and respectful it is.)
As it turned out, Sangha was giving us a tour of the retreat house. It had once been a hunting lodge. To the south of us lay the lama house.
(Backstory on the corporate hunting lodge: for their very first hunting trip at the lodge, the company bosses invited their secretaries with them, not their wives. When the group returned home, someone told one of the wives. And that was the beginning of a scandal, a lawsuit, and the end of the hunting lodge. Apparently, there was never even a second company trip.)
The monastery bought the land after the lodge closed. Monks converted it to a holy site. It was attractive because the lodge sat with a mountain to the north (as required for temples in Tibetan Buddhism) and a river to the south (again a requirement). All that remained was to orient the monastery facade to the south or east. (They did both.)
I could have spent hours talking with Sangha. We covered philosophy, history, and religious ceremony. He was spiritual and thoughtful. His wife stepped between us to remind him of the time and the chores he still had to do. Maybe everyone started looking at their watches, too. (I don't really think so, though.)
Normally, when I describe a place I try to recommend it or warn everyone against it. This time, well - I highly recommend getting a private tour of a Tibetan Buddhist temple, especially if Sangha is your guide. It seems sort of hard to arrange, though.





